There is only one dish I would publicly admit that someone else cooks better than my Amma. The dish is a South Indian street food known as vadai (or vada or vade). And the person who beats Amma in making it is a white-bearded old man who owns a small food stall, Bhai Sarbat, on Arab Street, Singapore.
South Indian Vadai
Vadai, or the Indian doughnut my colleagues call it, is precisely that. A crispy-skinned fluffy fritter is made by deep-frying the lentil batter seasoned with various Indian spices and a bit of magic.
You can eat it just like that, best when it’s still piping hot minutes from the wok or with condiments.
I grew up eating plenty of vadais, thanks to the many temple weddings and other cultural events my parents dragged me to when I was a kid. Eventually, it became my favourite South Indian snack. So much so that Amma always makes some vadais (alongside Payasam, my favourite South Indian dessert) whenever I visit home. Unfortunately, her motherly love-infused vadais still can’t compete with the oil-dripped Bhai Sarbat vadai.
Bhai Sarbat Vadai
“What’s so good about Bhai Sarbat vadai?” I heard you ask.
Firstly, Bhai Sarbat vadai (available daily after 3 PM) has a prawn. And sometimes, if the God of luck were smiling at me, there would be two prawns in one vadai. Secondly, snacking Bhai Sarbat vadai is usually accompanied by their delicious homemade iced milk tea (Teh ice, as the locals call it) and semi-fresh green chilli. All for $2.
Will Work for Bhai Sarbat Vadai
The Bhai Sarbat stall was located near my office when I was an immigrant in Singapore. It had become my workday ritual to sneak out mid-afternoon to stretch my legs and refuel my energy, albeit with sugary drinks and fried snacks.
On not-so-hectic workdays, I would share one of the three tables with other customers in front of the Bhai Sarbat stall. It was my me-time to pause, gather my thoughts or witness Singapore go by while I still had to go back to work. Some days I would buy back vadais for my colleagues. On other days, usually during the month-end closing, David, our CEO, would get Bhai Sarbat vadais for us instead.
These rituals went on for years. Resulting in more weight on my body and more space for Bhai Sarbat vadai in my heart. Even now, it’s one of the things that I miss the most about Singapore.
Recently, during a layover in Singapore, I finally had a chance to return to Bhai’s stall. It was crowded, as usual. I joined the long line. Trying to sneak a peek to see whether my favourite snack was still there as it was already late in the evening, and the vadai usually was the first one to finish every day.
When I was in front of the queue, I chirped: “Bhai, I am back! I will get the usual two vadais and teh ice, please“.
I was ecstatic to see his face when he saw his most loyal customer, me. Without lifting his head, the Bhai replied, “$3.50”. I gave him the money and lingered around, hoping he would lift his head. He eventually did. He lifted his head, I mean. And without a silver recognition, he yelled “next!” instead.
#VadaiPride
I visited the Bhai Sarbat stall in mid-December 2019. It has changed ownership and even has an Instagram account now. Initially, I was sceptical but decided to give it a chance. Verdict: Bhai Sarbat vadai still is THE BEST SOUTH INDIAN VADAI IN SINGAPORE!! I returned with a few more vadais to be eaten in the hotel and a t-shirt that I had been wearing with a full-on vadai-pride.
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