Morning Adventures in Tsuruhashi Japan’s Largest Koreatown

My first impression of Tsuruhashi, the largest Koreatown in Japan, was that it looked nothing like Chinatown in Yokohama. It’s smaller and more enclosed, resembling the markets in Korea.

I was there on TokyoTimes Lee’s suggestion. He said I’d love it.

Tsuruhashi

It was still early morning, and the shops were half-closed. Even though the place was half-empty, there were plenty of morning activities, mainly in the seafood section. As usual, too many things fascinated me, and people were kind enough to smile or at least ignore the brown girl with purple hair who might be carrying a camera around.

I stood watching the tuna-cutting process for far too long. It was utterly fascinating.

Past the fresh seafood section was another food area where activities were slowly starting. I saw the familiar sight of Banchan being sold. My mind began to blend in with the markets I have been to in Japan and Korea; I find it immensely fascinating to see cultural assimilation at this level.

A bit further past the food aisle were the eateries. Most were still closed, but some were open, and I spotted a group of old men drinking. Did they start this early, or was it a continuation of yesterday night?

Closer to the other end of Tsuruhashi were cupcake shops and cafes. This time, I made another loop into the market through the smaller aisles, mostly finding clothing stores and residential areas. On the outer parts, there were many restaurants.

I met many interesting characters, including one who insisted I take pictures of her stall but not of herself. She mainly communicated with hand gestures, which I obliged.

I tried to find Hottek but have yet to see it. Also, I was curious whether I’d find Sannakji here, but no luck either. Maybe it was too early, or they didn’t sell it in the summer. There were parked bikes, and I spotted the famous Korean banana milk in one of the market’s fridges but was surprised not to see any skincare stalls. Are they blending in or standing out for the Japanese?

In my opinion, Tsuruhashi is best visited with a local, and more than once, so you can experience the hustle and bustle of the fish market in the morning. It would also be nice to try their never-ending snacks for a meal or drink, but again, not alone. This place was too foreign for a foreigner in a foreign country.

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