Inside one of the market wings in the Toyosu Fish Market, I was. Trying to imagine how it would feel to witness the auction from above. Separated by a glass window and height — easily a few meters away. Not sure how I would hear the auctioneers yelling – if at all. Definitely wouldn’t be able to get a wisp of the fishy smell of Tokyo’s iconic tuna auction. The whole place was underwhelming.
Toyosu Fish Market was Underwhelming
I wouldn’t travel to Japan for this. Heck, even if I lived in Tokyo, I wouldn’t wake up at 2 AM for this. It didn’t feel like a cultural event, let alone a historical moment.
But of course, I didn’t know this before I visited Toyosu Fish Market during my last Japan trip. Which, for someone who is borderline obsessed with the fish market, it seemed only fitting to pay the new fish market in town a visit.
Unlike its’ predecessor, Toyosu Fish Market is located far away from the city. Fafa and I had to take a train from Oshiage to Shinjuku Station. From there to Kokusai-Tenjijō Station. And then walked to Ariake Station and get down at Shijō-mae Station. The hour ride showcased parts of Tokyo I wasn’t familiar with. Ports, a large body of water, tall new-ish looking hotels, and office buildings.
Based on the number of tourists who got down at the same station, it was pretty clear, I wasn’t the only one with the idea of checking the new fish market. But some of their conversations made me wonder whether they had done any research before coming all the way here because well, no tuna auction is going to happen past 5 AM.
My first impression of the Toyosu Fish Market was that it’s huge. Second, that it’s empty and the third and eventually lasting one was it was “meh”.
My first impression of the Toyosu Fish Market was that it’s huge. Second, that it’s empty and the third and eventually lasting one was it was “meh”.
It took us a while to find where to go because though there were plenty of signs, all were plenty confusing. After walking around in a circle a few times, each time getting hangrier than before, I wanted to give up. But Fafa insisted that I should at least check out the tuna auction section. When we finally did, as I said before, it wasn’t worth it.
Toyosu Fish Market felt like an industrial fish market, wiped off of any sense of authentic Japanese culture and long-held traditions. It was blue and sterile. Though seems informative it’s plenty boring. Evidently so compared to the buzzing Tsukiji Fish Market we visited the day before.
A Meal at Toyosu Fish Market
Since I have been hangry for a while — we decided to find a lunch place within the market.
There were only a few options which again were separated by wings and weren’t easy to find. After queuing for a good half hour in front of what looked like a famous tempura place the waiter came up with a sign in Japanese which we didn’t get. He then made a gesture with his hands. The universal sign of no means the restaurant was no longer taking any costumer.
Oh well. Fafa suggested checking out the food court Googled mentioned which was located on another side of the huge market. The food court (which wasn’t really a food court – it was a floor with a few different restaurants on it) was filled with hungry tourists que-ing at every single restaurant there.
I weighed my options. Que here for an hour or take the train back to the city for the same amount of time. It’s weird to think you would queue for an hour for food. Especially in Japan where the meal always tastes good almost anywhere. But since we were already in Toyosu Fish Market so why not close the day’s experience with a meal there.
We joined the queue for the restaurant that offered a set menu that included sashimi. I mean we were in the fish market after all where else could we get a fresher plate of dead raw fish. The food was really good. But would I ever come back to Toyosu Fish Market, even just for the meal? Nope. Not in Japan, no.
The visit to Toyosu Fish Market made me realize that, maybe, not all fish markets are worth visiting. I also thanked my lucky star for a chance to visit and bid farewell to my beloved Tsukiji Fish Market.
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