Toddy Shop in Kerala An Authentic Mallu Experience

One of the highlights of my recent Kerala trip was the authentic Mallu experience of having a delicious seafood feast in a toddy shop in Kerala. It was the day after my bro -in-law’s wedding. We were having a chill morning in the room when Fafa’s uncle called and invited us for a meal. Of course, we said yes! An hour later the family came to pick us up from the resort.

We drove past markets, churches, rice fields and backwaters. All the while, I kept thinking about how beautiful Kerala was. An hour-ish later, we arrived at a restaurant with a “Family Toddy Shop” board placed near the entrance. I later learned Family Toddy Shop means it’s a family-friendly restaurant in Kerala that also serves toddy.

A Meal in The Family Toddy Shop

Soon after we reached the restaurant compound, Fafa’s Chitti (aunt) called me into the toddy shop kitchen to choose the dishes. Going inside the kitchen didn’t seem like a norm of the restaurant, as I didn’t see any other patron doing it, but it seemed like Cha-cha was a friend of the owner hence the special kitchen access.

My jaw dropped when I stepped inside the kitchen. There was a plethora of food. Indian dishes that I wasn’t really familiar with. From seafood to beef. From curry to roast.

It reminded me of the dishes displayed in Padang restaurants in Indonesia, but on a much larger scale than what I used to see, at least in the restaurant I frequented in Jakarta. 

I mostly drooled over the seafood dishes as Kerala being a coastal region of India therefore famous for its seafood. And, I personally am crazy about seafood.

Finally, Chitti asked for fish curry, Meen Pollichathu (fried fish steamed in banana leaf ― Fafa’s fave), crab curry, squid roast, clam roast, and Netholi Niravu (fried anchovies).

I also asked for Kappa (mashed tapioca) instead of rice as I haven’t developed a taste for Kerala rice, which is different from the white rice I am used to.

After putting the massive order in, we went inside a private shed with a big table that could easily fit ten people and a personal washing basin right outside the hut. We could either sit inside these huts, family rooms or outside, right below the coconut trees, for a more authentic experience. We chose the hut to avoid the peak sun and possibly-drunken crowds out.

Kallu ━ Toddy By Another Name

The first item placed on the table was a pot of Toddy. Toddy, aka Kallu in Malayam, is an alcoholic beverage made of palm sap. It’s milky white in colour, tastes sweet, is usually served in a clay pot and can be intoxicating. Cha-cha poured the toddy into the empty glasses for us and himself.

I excitedly took a sip and another sip and another. To my surprise, I didn’t like it! I was half expecting it to taste like the Feni I had in Goa, but it was a bit too sweet for my liking, lacked fizziness and was served at room temperature, which according to Fafa, is how it should be served.

Writing this, I wonder whether it was my subconscious mind that put resistance for Toddy on my tastebud so as not drunkenly to embarrass myself in front of my in-laws (it was only lunchtime, and we were visiting families for the rest of the day).

But, the so-called wondering above could just be my self-proclaimed-alcoholic way of refusing to accept that I didn’t like toddy. I want to try it at least one more time (in the right setting) before concluding that I really didn’t like toddy.

Soon after, the food came to the hut, and we started eating. I loved every single dish served (I ate as if I hadn’t been eating for days!), but if I chose one as a fave, it would be Kakka Irachi Ularthiyathu (Clam Roast). It was perfectly cooked, with every clam coated with thick masala *chef kiss*. I demolished the whole plate by myself while Fafa and his family were chit-chatting in Malayam.

Where to find a toddy shop in Kerala?

I spent a good hour trying to find the name of the toddy shop we went to but no luck. Not even with a clear picture of what I thought was the shop name (apparently, it was Toddy in Malayalam) and address. Sorry about this!*

Meanwhile, if you google toddy shop Kerala, you can easily find family-friendly toddy shops. My only advice would be to go with a group of people. Oh, also, prepare yourself to eat as much as you can there. Enjoy!

Shout out to Cha-cha, Chitti (and the two kuttis who tagged along) for treating us to one of the best meal experiences of my life.

*Found the name of the place we went to: Aatumukham Restaurant & Toddy Shop.

Aatumukham Restaurant & Toddy Shop address: F97R+F72, Pallathuruthy, Ponga, Kainakary South, Kerala 688501, India. Opens everyday from 9AM to 9PM.

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