Tranquil Charms of Misty Mountains in Takahara

We made it to Takahara, our first pit stop on the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage, on foot in the late afternoon. After a day of hiking, the sight of civilization was like an energy boost. And let me tell you, Takahara Village was stunning from the get-go. We strolled through the village, checking out the scenery at a few houses before taking a detour to a small shrine off the main road.

Takahara Kumano-jinja Shrine

After a short walk, we found ourselves in front of the Takahara Kumano-jinja Shrine, known online as one of the oldest shrines in the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage. We said a little prayer, admired the impressive tree next to it, and then went on a mission to find the pilgrimage stamp. Unfortunately, neither of us could spot it, and a bit disappointed, we headed back to the main road.

There were some cool cafes overlooking the hilly mountains, offering snacks and drinks for pilgrims, which seemed like a great pit stop. We thought about it but decided to pass since we had no clue about the remaining hike’s distance or difficulty—a decision we regretted soon after, realizing it was the perfect spot for a break, especially if Takahara Village was your final destination for the day.

The View from Takahara Kiri-no-sato Rest Area

Finally, we reached our last hiking stop for the day—the rest area where our host was picking us up for the night. We were pretty wiped out, but the view was worth the day’s struggle. Picture this: a hilly top with rice terraces surrounded by mountains. BEAUTIFUL.

While waiting, I struck up a conversation with a tourist named Jane. She’d just been dropped off at the same spot and was part of a hiking group led by a German lady who had settled down in Japan. Jane, being smart, gave up halfway, got a taxi, and ended up here, waiting for her hiking mates. I instantly liked Jane, thinking I would’ve done the same hours earlier if I knew it was an option. Soon after, the guest house manager picked us up, and we said our goodbyes after Jane ensured us she’d get picked up soon, too (btw, it turned out to be a temporary goodbye as we met Jane-the-tourist in Chikatsuyu and again in Yunomine Onsen Village).

A Quick Stop at The Supermarket

Despite staying within Takahara Village, the houses are spread out due to the hilly terrain. So when our host offered a pickup service, we jumped on it. While driving, he mentioned there wouldn’t be any food in the guest house and suggested we grab some from the supermarket. So, we did—each getting a Bento box and drinks (Choya for me and beer for Fafa). I also found it sweet how the guest house manager tagged along in the supermarket, explaining the food items in case we were unsure.

Embracing Japanese Culture with An Overnight in a Minka

NuLLM Guest House

Winding roads, tired bodies, overpacked bags, and food in tow, we arrived at our Takahara Village Guest House – NuLLM. It was an old, traditional Japanese house that reminded me of our stay in Hanok, a traditional Korean house in Seoul. Renovated for rental but still oozing with old charms, it had a bathroom, kitchen, bedroom, reading room, an all-purpose room, and a dining room. Most main rooms were separated with sliding doors that could be turned into one massive space.

I’d always dreamt of living in rural Japan, and even if just for one night, it felt like a dream come true.

After confirming the pickup time for the next day via Google Translator and exchanging thank-yous and a few bows, the guest house manager left us alone in the house, surrounded by the hilly forests of Takahara Village.

Since the sun was still up, and we were too tired for anything else, we spent our first hour chilling in the backyard, snacking, and prematurely reminiscing our first day of the Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage. Now that it was done, I felt like I could handle the rest of the route—while Fafa Googled shortcuts (which turned out to be a lifesaver the next day).

Soon after, it started raining, so we headed inside to unpack and prepare for the night. After showers, we sat down for dinner.

It was one of those rare days when we didn’t go overboard in the supermarket, and we wished we did because our bentos, though filling, couldn’t satisfy our hunger. Luckily, I had a stash of chocolate from Kii Tanabe that I’d squeezed between my clothes in the backpack, and we devoured it right after dinner.

The rain made for a cozy atmosphere throughout the night. We spent the rest of the evening in the reading nook, doing our own thing. Fafa listened to music while I attempted to sketch the view from the foggy mountains, a sight Takahara is known for.

Grateful in Takahara

It wasn’t even 8 o’clock before we hit the hay, snoozing almost immediately once our heads hit the pillows on our futons.

Fafa was already opening the windows when I woke up around 5ish. My first thought—

“I can see myself living in Takahara.”

It was true. I loved it there! I live for this kind of experience. In just less than 24 hours, it felt like my life balance had been restored. It’s my birthday week, and it genuinely feels like a birthday week. I was relaxed and grateful for everything, collecting new cultural experiences that will become life wisdom.

Life was good, and I wanted to carry the feeling forever. It was a world away from the grind of adulthood, maybe because of the forest, surrounded by it, surrendering myself to it—Shinrin-yoku.

Eager to make the most of it, I hopped out of bed and got Fafa to stroll around the village—nothing too far, but far enough for us to make a pact to return for another Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route.

We then returned to the guest house, got ready, packed up, and waited for the manager to pick us up and drop us off at the starting point for our second day of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage.

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🏡 — KK