I took several steps back and stood half-hidden behind Fafa’s shoulder to continue watching the grey-robed temple monk scolding a tourist couple who asked for the same thing I was about to ask: a Goshuin stamp.
Goshuin
Goshuin Stamp is a stamp or a seal that may be acquired by visiting Japanese shrines. The Goshuin, with the date, will be stamped on a special notebook called Goshuincho (temple seal book) in return for a small contribution to the temple.
In Search of Goshuincho
Goshuincho is a specific notebook used only for Goshuin and to be treated with respect and care. I learnt about it right before our honeymoon trip to Japan. Unfortunately, unlike the Eki Stamp book, which is practically available everywhere, I had a hard time finding Goshuincho. I had even embarrassingly asked a Starbucks server whether they might have it. For the love of the Japanese God, it didn’t occur to me that a temple book would be available in a temple ━ in the gift shop of Zenkoji Temple in Nagano, to be exact.
Zenkoji Temple
It was Fafa who pointed it out to me when I was busy choosing good luck amulets for souvenirs. There were a few – but I was drawn to only one. It was a black Moleskin-sized notebook with a black sleeve decorated with a simple sketch Zenkoji Temple pagoda in gold ink. I opened it ━ inside accordion-like pages, thick, not unlike sketching book pages. I knew it immediately; it was the one ━ and thanked Fafa for buying it for me.
Funnily enough, I didn’t get a Goshuin seal from Zenkoji Temple. We went to Zenkoji Temple in the evening and left (with a stopover at the gift store) right before it was about to close. And we left Nagano for Nagoya the morning after.
Back to hiding behind Fafa, I reasoned with myself:
Goshuin from Shorinzan Darumaji Temple
I finally had a Goshuincho; I was holding it in my hand. And I was in a temple – albeit a hundred twenty kilometres from where I acquired the said Goshuincho. Suppose I was to be scolded by a monk, who’s ten times holier than myself, to obtain my first-ever Goshuin, especially from a temple I specifically travelled to Takasaki to visit; it didn’t seem to be the worst thing in life.
When it was our turn, I went to him, flashing what I thought was a zen smile that could easily look like a foolish grin from his perspective, and politely requested, “May I ask for the temple seal also, please.”
He looked at me, assessed sternly and said, “You must write the prayer yourself.” I replied with a “yes” almost immediately, thinking I could recite the Ganapathy mantra in the Goshuincho.
Apparently, that’s not what he wanted me to do – and thankfully, I didn’t jump to the task as fast as my reply to his instruction. Instead, the monk told me to enter the admin hall, gave me a piece of prayer paper, and instructed me to trace the Buddhist sutra (Sacred scriptures) with an inked pen while silently praying. And I did just that, mindfully ━ it was a tiny tranquil moment of my life that I treasure until today.
When I was done and started to be aware of my surroundings again, I could see the couple I saw earlier were tasked to do the same thing as I was on another corner of the hall. I guessed all had been forgiven by then.
Eventually, the same monk returned, collected the paper and invited me to a smaller hall, separated by half a wall from the main area. He asked for my name, performed a little prayer ritual and, in the end, made some gestures that felt like blessings. This part reminded me so much of the rituals in the Hindu temples. Only that it felt a bit more personal because it was just me.
He then told me to come back to collect my Goshuincho in ten minutes before reminding me about the fee for the Goshuin. I couldn’t remember how much it was ━ I think either 100 or 500 Yen. But I could easily recall the feeling I had walking down the 200 steps leaving the Shorinzan Darumaji Temple compound. I felt rejuvenated and silently excited that I finally acquired a Goshuin.
Kasuga Taisha Shrine Goshuin
My second Goshuincho pilgrimage was more straightforward. It was from Kasuga Taisha Shrine in Nara. I felt a strong connection with the beautiful shrine and decided to get Goshuincho if they had it. They did. I submitted Goshuincho through the small window, paid the fee, and minutes later, it was returned with a fresh Goshuin. It was quick and efficient. But I don’t know… I’d hoped there would be a bit more to it.
My Goshuincho, still mostly blank, is sitting on my bookshelves ━ in between Maxine Beneba‘s poetry and Charlie Claire Burgess‘s Fifth Tarot. I have this grand dream of filling it along my Kumano Kodo pilgrimage, whenever it might be. Meanwhile, I am grateful that my first Goshuin acquiring experience was memorable, even if it had started with an angry monk.
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